Photo by tooky

1. Keep in mind that fear and pain can cause an otherwise docile animal to bite. So be very patient and take your time.

2. Before moving toward the animal just stand around so he can get used to your presence.

3. Move slowly, staying calm though aware. Make yourself less threatening by approaching side-on to the creature and not looking him directly in the eye.

4. Talk in soft, soothing tones, never use a high-pitched, excitable voice.

5. If the animal is not showing any aggression you can try crouching down to his level when you’re still some distance away and patting the ground or calling him to you, but always be ready to defend yourself or get away quickly in case the animal attacks.

6. Never crowd the pet or back him into a corner. You’ll be seen as an aggressor and may find yourself on the wrong side of a set of teeth or claws.

7. Never put your face in front of the animal’s face.

8. Learn what you can about body language of dogs, cats and other animals. The more you are able to “read” an animal’s temperament, the safer for all concerned.

9. If you are not confident of your ability to handle a stray — then don’t! Most animals are extremely sensitive to human feelings and by projecting nervousness you will likely heighten the pet’s anxiety.

Tools that can help:

Leash: Even if the pet is not wearing a collar, you can create a noose by slipping the end of a leash through the looped handle. Don’t just assume every critter is leash-trained, however. For some strays a leash around the neck may be a completely new experience and cause panic. And never drag an animal with the lead; you risk causing injury. Just wait and give the pet time to relax.

Muzzle: For your own safety with an aggressive or potentially aggressive animal a muzzle is a smart idea. In the likely event that such an item is not handy, a strip of soft cloth or gauze bandage from a first aid kit can be tied around the muzzle. Don’t use anything that might cut into the pet’s flesh.

Food and Treats: Certainly with dogs this can be a very effective way to begin gaining trust. Even if the animal is not particularly hungry, a tasty treat can be a compelling reason to make friends.

Crate: A safe way to confine a pet or transport him, if necessary. Most animals will actually feel more secure in a crate and you won’t be distracted by driving with a frantic dog or cat or ferret in your car. There’s also the added benefit that if the pet throws up or relieves himself, the mess will be confined. And if you don’t have a crate, it’s best to tie the animal in the back of your vehicle.

Towel or blanket: Wrapped around a smaller pet a towel can save you from sharp claws. Covering the animal’s head can be dicey. Some creatures will freeze when they can’t see, others may react ferociously, so use extreme caution before trying this. And never approach an animal head-on holding a towel or blanket in front of you – - you’ll appear menacing. Approach calmly from the side with the towel as much out of sight as possible.

Your hand: Probably the most effective tool you have! You can use your hands to gently stroke and calm an animal, or exert pressure to hold him secure (though not in a death grip!). Just remember, your hands are also very vulnerable, so don’t take chances.

“If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principle difference between a dog and a man.” ~ Mark Twain

How do you find a pet sitter?

I thought I had the perfect (well, near-perfect) pet-sitter but I just discovered you can never rest on your laurels and assume things won’t change.

Returning from a recent trip, my husband and I walked into our home and were first hit with the smell. We’d taken our three dogs with us but left Ann (not her real name) in charge of our nine rescued cats. What had been a minor – and controlled – problem with inappropriate urinating by Cappy, who suffers with recurring urinary problems, had seemingly escalated into a full-scale pee-fest amongst several of our males.

In the kitchen the water bowl was bone dry, my plants were equally devoid of moisture, dirty underwear was on the bathroom floor, the door to a room that was to be kept closed was wide open and there were several spots of urine on the carpet. It didn’t look as if any of the cats had been brushed (we brush almost daily) and, most disturbing, we had a sick cat.

Within a short time of our return, Ditto threw up a small amount of foamy mucous. I was a little concerned at the appearance but not alarmed. We are, after all, now into hairball season so I assumed that was the most likely cause. When he continued to throw up and also refuse any food I did become alarmed, and he was obviously lethargic and unhappy so I whisked him off to the doctor to discover he has pancreatitis. Ditto had also lost 1 1/2 pounds, so this wasn’t a problem that manifested itself just as we arrived home. He’d been suffering for several days.

Thing is, I don’t expect my pet-sitter to know my “kids” as I do. However, when pet-sitting is your profession I do expect you to be able to notice when one of my cats is apparently suffering or behaving strangely, especially when you have cared for my pets on many previous occasions. Surely you have an inkling of their personalities and behavioral habits by now? And if in doubt, I’m always just a phone call away!

As for the mess in the house, I don’t expect my pet-sitter to be a cleaner but I do think it’s reasonable that she keep my home tidy. And about the marking all around the house, if instructions had been followed regarding Cappy’s faux-pas, the situation would have been contained. As it was, no apparent attempt had been made to deal with the urine, not even the Anti-Icky-Poo that was readily available had been used, let alone any of the many packages of cleaning wipes that were prominent everywhere.

Maybe you think I’m expecting too much (though there were a number of other issues of concern) but I’m not asking for more than the service that is offered. And, in fact, I always pay more than asked. I even make a point of getting my pet-sitter gourmet coffee and teas, Belgian chocolates and wine (hmmm, maybe that’s the problem!).

Anyway, to help you find a pet-sitter you can be sure of, here are a few hints to keep in mind:

1. In spite of my recent experience, it’s generally better to hire a professional. Your friends and neighbors may be willing but someone who does this for their living is likely to be more committed and more experienced. And if problems do arise, you won’t be risking a friendship.

2. Interview at least three potential sitters and insist they come to your home. You need to see how they behave with your pets and how your pets react to them.

3. A good resource for sitters is your vet, or ask people you trust for recommendations. There are lots of online services such as the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters, Pet Sitters International or  sittercity, where you’ll find listings of sitters in your area. I’ve had no personal experience with any of these sites but I would caution you to read all the details before committing to anyone. Some sites have a screening process that is a plus though is not foolproof.

4. Have a list of questions ready and pay attention to the sitter’s openness to answer as well as the actual responses.

5. A good sitter will come armed with references and you should certainly check them. However, don’t rely too much on references; it’s easy for someone to get a pal or two to fake a reference.

6. To protect your home and contents as well as your pets, a sitter should be bonded and have liability insurance to cover accidents, theft and negligence. And I strongly recommend that you draw up a contract, if the sitter does not have one, to provide a written agreement of services and fees.

7. An often forgotten, though very important point, is to ensure that your sitter has a back-up in the event that something happens to them and they are unable to continue caring for Rover or Kitty. Several years ago my husband and I were out of the country. My mother-in-law was caring for our little mutt (pictured in the header) when she fell and dislocated her hip. An ambulance was called and so was our back-up sitter, who came and took Muttley and cared for him in her home ’til our return. Happily, mom-in-law was also fine.

7. Lastly, it’s a huge plus to hire someone with professional experience in pet health care (like a vet tech) and animal training.

“Animals can communicate quite well.  And they do.  And generally speaking, they are ignored.”  ~Alice Walker

On a recent trip to Florida this was illustrated once again. We visited several dog parks, all of which were well maintained with shady areas, water fountains, sometimes dog-washing areas, doggy bags and seating areas for pet-parents. Many of the pet-parents we met were a pleasure; friendly, responsible and with wonderful dogs. However, as always seems to be the case, there are a few owners who are either simply clueless, or just don’t care about keeping their hounds under control and maintaining a clean and pleasant park for everyone.

Trying to enter one park we were bombarded with a pack of leaping, out-of-control canines. We waited outside the gate while a couple of the owners ineffectually called their pooches. Eventually, things calmed down a little and we ventured inside only to have the pack surge upon us again. As we fought our way through the melee one of the owners commented that they were trying to prevent this from happening by having the county (who are responsible for the park maintenance) move the gate!

I was incredulous. The problem certainly wasn’t the county’s, nor was it the location of the gate. It was a two-fold dilemma. First, all the owners were hanging around within a few feet of the gate and so all the dogs were hanging with them. Moving further into the park and away from the gate (wherever it may be situated) would go along way to preventing such a fiasco. Second, a little training would help to teach the dogs to respond when they are called away and maintain order in the dog park.

Anyway, enough of that. The purpose here is to offer guidelines that will make travel with your pet safer, easier and a pleasanter experience for all concerned, so let’s get on with it.

Traveling Dog, courtesy SsJ Toma

Safety:

Make sure tags and IDs are up-to-date and keep collars on at all times unless you feel really secure in the safety of your hotel room or friend’s home. Remember, even the best behaved dog can get excited or panicked in strange surroundings. And keep a list with you of all important phone numbers and IDs – veterinarian (in case of an accident you may need your pet’s records) and micro-chip company. It’s also a good idea to locate the emergency veterinarian in the areas where you plan to stay and have the address and phone number at the ready, just in case.

Read Finding Fido for more helpful hints.

TRAVEL BY CAR:

Adjusting to the car: Rover is probably used to riding in the car and even looks forward to it. But if the only trips he takes are to the vet, he may associate driving with bad things and be anxious or downright panicky. That being the case, you need to accustom him to the vehicle before embarking on a long journey.

Start going for regular short trips, especially to fun places like the bank drive-through (where he gets a treat), the park for walks in the woods, even the pet store where he might get a toy or treats or meet other dogs. You get the idea.

If Rover is still a little tense, try a holistic remedy. A dose of Bach’s Rescue Remedy (I never travel without it) might do the trick and there are many other products now readily available that can have a calming effect. And if that doesn’t work you may have to talk to your vet about anti-anxiety medications but use them carefully. I once had a cat freak-out and start doing back-flips when I gave him a veterinarian prescribed treatment that was supposed to relax him!

Plan ahead: Be prepared to stop every three or four hours, or even less. A dog that can “hold his own” all day at home may need more frequent relief with the excitement of travel. And be sure you have these things handy:

Leash
Water and bowl
Toys to keep Fido entertained
Blanket or bed to keep him comfortable and reassured
Treats (but not too many, or your pooch may get sick)
Medications, if necessary
Medical records
Emergency contact information (vet, pet-finder, etc)
First Aid Kit
Doggy bags

TRAVEL BY AIR:

This is not a happy experience for any pet. Smaller animals may be able to ride in the cabin, subject to FAA rules. Most pets, however, are considered cargo and have to fly in the hold. The Air Transport Association offers some helpful advice about air travel and pets but it is essential that you contact the airline you plan to use for full disclosure of all rules and regulations.

There is one airline, Pet Airways, that is in business only to transport pets. They are by far a better option than other commercial airlines, unfortunately they service only a very few cities in the United States.

ACCOMODATIONS:

Hotels: Most hotels do not allow pets, so do your due diligence before you depart or you and Fido may be curled up together in the back seat of the car.

There are a number of websites that can aid in finding suitable accomodations. Try Pet Friendly Hotels or Dog Friendly or do a search of the local area in which you want to stay. And while there are several hotel chains that say they allow pets don’t assume that to be so. Always check first as there are some franchisees who may change the rules.

Be aware also that a pet deposit is often required and it is rarely refundable and some hotels have size restrictions, allowing only dogs under 40 or 50lbs, or will restrict the number of dogs that can stay. That’s why I often use La Quinta. They have over 700 pet-friendly properties without the restrictions and with no deposit required and the price is reasonable.

Friends and Family: You may be welcome to stay with friends and family but don’t assume your pet is. Ask first!! And…

Be considerate: I always travel with carpet cleaner and lots of paper towels, pet wipes and doggy bags. If my pet makes a mess – I clean it up!

PACKING FOR YOUR PET:

You might be surprised how much “stuff” Fido needs when he’s on the go. That’s why I make a list to be sure nothing is forgotten – medications, food, water, treats, favorite toy(s), grooming aids, towels, emergency medical kit…….

FUN:

Again, search online and you’ll find dog parks, dog-friendly restaurants, events and more. Don’t be shy about asking hotel staff for suggestions, and some of the best tips you’ll get will be from other dog owners at the parks or in your hotel.

While traveling with pets can certainly restrict some activities my husband and I always have a great time with Vinny, Angel and Coco. We enjoy al fresco dining, lazing at the beach, walks through forests and mountains and, best of all, sharing time with our favorite “people”.

“Did you ever notice when you blow in a dog’s face he gets mad at you? But when you take him in a car he sticks his head out the window!” ~ Steve Bluestone

Anoles, pronounced as /e-noul-iz/, belong to the lizard family. They are the most common pet lizard in the world, often called American chameleons for their ability to change color. Anoles are intelligent but shy creatures and, though best left in their housing, can become somewhat comfortable with being handled. However,  they require very gentle handling and can easily be crushed and stressed. Never pick them up by the tail as they may drop it. The tail will grow back but not the same as before. Unfortunately, because they are so readily and inexpensively available, there are still a huge number that suffer inappropriate care, either because of ignorance on the part of the owner, laziness or downright apathy.

WildRescue, Inc of Lewisville, Texas, recently rescued over 1,000 animals such as this Green/Bahama Anole from a raid on US Global Exotics. Find out about adopting by calling Wild Rescue at 940-442-8289.

HOUSING

Anoles that have been bred in captivity generally make better pets than wild-caught lizards as they will be less stressed. Just remember, they still require a commitment to their continual care (they can live 4 – 8 years) and don’t assume they are less expensive than larger, more exotic reptiles. The initial set-up of their habitat will be just as costly. But once your anoles are happily ensconced in their abode, you will be able to enjoy a wonderful slice of tropical landscape in your home.

Other resources:

http://www.anapsid.org/anole.html

“Precisely the least, the softest, lightest, a lizard’s rustling, a breath, a flash, a moment – a little makes the way of the best happiness.” ~ Friedrich Nietzsche

There are often injuries, especially with geldings, that while not life threatening are career ending, especially when it involves the legs. This is often something that takes a great deal of time to heal. It may involve a bone in the foot such as a sesamoid injury or a tendon injury.

This beautiful boy is Slews Enough and he is available for adoption, along with many other wonderful thoroughbreds, at ReRun, Inc.

Following veterinarian orders exactly is key towards a successful recovery. Minor injuries may just take some time hand-walking the horse while other injuries can involve learning to properly wrap the leg and apply medicines to the injury.

Additionally, be sure to ask if the horse has been on medications on the track. Follow advice if withdrawal times are needed. Ask about a history of colic – some horses that are nervous can be prone to bouts of colic, especially triggered by life changes. Retirement can be such a life change.

Consider that mentally everything in this horse’s life changes with retirement. He has perhaps become used to being groomed and working on the race track for a mile or so before most people are out of bed. He is cooled out, gets his hearty breakfast and settles in for a snooze. From the most basic of care this changes when he’s brought to your home. Sometimes a horse that has already been “let down” may be a better selection, especially if this is your first horse.

Most thoroughbreds have been very used to veterinarians and although some simply accept this as part of the day others can be very difficult to handle when the veterinarian arrives. This is especially true if it’s a horse that has had health issues requiring a lot of care, much like a person who finally reaches a point of saying “no more doctors!”

Because of the requirements of many tracks these horses will normally be up to date on vaccinations including the Coggins test for equine infectious anemia, which is required in many states. They are familiar with being handled regularly for shoeing, although sometimes the feet are trimmed and shod differently than saddle horses.  This can mean an adjustment for the horse as the foot grows out. A reliable farrier is needed to get the feet at a natural, correct angle.

The race horse, by the nature of his work, uses a great deal of energy so can also consume a great deal of feed. To avoid metabolic upset the horse’s feed should be adjusted to suit the slower pace of retirement. This will also drop the energy level of the horse.

Among the problems that can occur is colic, founder and excessive weight gain. All three of these may even be ‘related.’ Some race horses may have ulcers, which can be helped simply by adding a tablespoon or two of baking soda to the feed. If the horse doesn’t clean up the feed on a regular basis, this may be the reason.

So be prepared for the possibility of physical ailments that can come with taking on an equine athlete and the adjustment in routine and activity level and you will have taken the  first important steps in rehabilitating a racehorse.

When God created the horse, he said to the magnificent creature: I have made thee as no other. All the treasures of the earth shall lie between thy eyes. Thou shalt cast thy enemies between thy hooves, but thou shalt carry my friends upon thy back. Thy saddle shall be the seat of prayers to me. And thou fly without any wings, and conquer without any sword. ~ The Koran

Marshmallow

This sweet little girl has been waiting two years for someone to come and take her home. She can be adopted from San Diego House Rabbit Society as of this writing and would love to get to know you.

Feeding:

On one side is the camp that advocates plenty of vegetables and no pellets. On the other side are the owners that advocate pellets as a base, some hay and occasional treats of vegetables. There are indications, however, that a vegetable only diet can lead to digestive upset, which can even be fatal; this is very rare with a pellet-based diet.

As with most things a moderate approach is important. Here are some guidelines for your bunny:

-Feed a few ounces of pellets per day.

-Supplement the diet with hay and greens but NEVER feed greens from the nightshade family, including potato and tomato greens.

-Flopsy will very likely enjoy treats of dandelion greens, an occasion plantain leaf or handful of grass. Make sure when giving these treats they have not been sprayed with any kind of fertilizer or weed-killer. Rabbits also love trimmings from rose or berry bushes and eagerly eat the pruning pieces when offered.

-Alfalfa hay is not usually needed unless the animal is breeding or growing. Ordinary grass hay can be a benefit to the rabbit’s health by providing roughage.

Teeth and Nails:

Pay particular attention to the teeth – they should meet evenly or top over bottom. If they don’t then the teeth won’t wear properly, leading to discomfort and the need for regular trimming of teeth.

Flopsy will also need her nails trimmed regularly. You can do this easily as you would a dog’s nails, using caution to trim short without getting into the ‘quick’ or sensitive inner nail. In light colored toenails this is easy to see.

Grooming:

All bunnies will benefit from brushing and it’s a great way to bond with your pet. Among the rabbit breeds for which daily grooming is essential is the angora. Its long soft hair can quickly become tangled and matted. Keeping the hair at one inch or less in length will help prevent problems but, if matts occur, use ball-tip grooming scissors to cut them out, snipping carefully down to the base of the matt, then tease the last of the matt out with a medium bristle brush. Don’t try cutting down to the skin; you’re likely to injure your pet.

Rabbits can make wonderful pets

…and can even be house-trained, though as prey animals they can be quite timid. They also have a tendency to scratch and bite but when they feel safe they can really come into their own and be affectionate and entertaining.

“Once I showed up at my sister’s with a baby rabbit I had bought from some children because its ears were cold. I put the rabbit on a hot water bottle and massaged its ears for quite a while. After all, I knew that all healthy animals had warm ears.” ~ Juliette G Low

Find lots more adoptable bunny rabbits at House Rabbit Society.

Sick Cat

* Emergency phone numbers (vet, emergency vet, poison control – 888-4ANI-HELP or 800-213-6680) and maps to vets’ offices
* First-Aid pet book
* Bach Rescue Remedy (for shock, stress, fear, trauma and injury in all pets)
* Sterile gauze pads and gauze bandage rolls
* First-aid adhesive tape (not Band-aids)
* Cotton balls and Q-tips
* Tweezers
* Scissors
* Hydrogen peroxide
* Styptic pencil or cornstarch (stems blood flow from minor cuts)
* Antibacterial ointment
* Hydrocortisone cream
* Antiseptic wipes (you can get sting-free)
* Kaopectate® or Pepto-Bismol®
*Milk of Magnesia or activated charcoal (for poisoning but ALWAYS call your vet or poison control BEFORE administering)
* Sterile eyewash
* Eyedropper or large syringe (to flush wounds or administer oral treatment)
* Mineral oil (a lubricant and laxative when given by mouth)
* Digital thermometer (you’ll need a “fever” thermometer, which has a higher scale)
* Heavy gloves (to protect you from being bitten)
* Exam gloves (preferably latex and powder free)
* Leash and collar
* Splint materials (tongue depressor, 12-inch wooden ruler, etc.)
* Muzzle (an animal that is frightened and in pain is unpredictable and likely to bite!)

“Cats are rather delicate creatures and they are subject to a good many ailments, but I never heard of one who suffered from insomnia.” ~ Joseph Wood Crutch

1. Don’t leave pets outside when the temperature plummets.
Just because your pet wears a fur coat, doesn’t mean he’s impervious to the cold!

It’s pretty obvious that a husky will fare better in the cold than a chihuahua, but bear in mind that animals need time to adapt to temperature changes, just as people do. A husky coming from the tropical climes of south Florida isn’t going to be as resilient to frigid cold in Alaska as a native hound will be.

And I’m not just talking about house pets. You may have a goat, a pig, a horse or a bunny that generally lives outdoors, so make sure there’s adequate shelter. It should be dry and draft-free with plenty of clean bedding* and preferably with the ability to safely heat it.

*Be wary of using blankets for bedding. Fido might play in the snow then lay on his blanket and a wet blanket can freeze, leaving Fido with no warmth. Better to use straw or hay as it allows moisture to evaporate, retains heat and is biodegradable. You can buy it from farm stores; just make sure it smells fresh and sweet, like new-mown grass.

2. Get the right pet for the climate.
Of course, this isn’t always an option but if you’re now in the process of choosing a pet then it’s something to bear in mind. Most snakes, for instance, are tropical or sub-tropical in nature. So if you live in the far north where sub-zero temperatures are not unknown and winter freezes cause electrical failures…..think ahead! You can’t just grab a parka from the closet and wrap your reptile in it. You’ll need to be prepared with an alternative heating source.

Vinny

3. Consider couture.
Normally I don’t encourage dressing-up of pets; I’m more of the “au naturel” way of thinking. However, extreme weather calls for appropriate measures and, as you can see from the picture of my pup, Vinny, I am not averse to a cozy jacket when called for.

4. Don’t forget paws.
Salt and other chemicals used to thaw roads and walkways can cause pads to crack and be sore. And, if ingested, these chemicals can be downright dangerous. Boots are one way to solve the problem but most dogs don’t like to wear them and good luck trying to get them on your cat! Instead, be vigilant about washing your pet’s paws before he has a chance to lick them. And to prevent ice build-up on paws, rub a little baby oil on and between the pads before going outside. The pads will stay more pliable and resist the formation of ice. You should also keep the hair between Fido’s toes well-clipped and be sure his nails are short so that snow can’t cling and form ice balls, which can be quite painful for your pet.

5. Food and water.
Pets who spend a lot of time outside in the cold will burn up calories to keep warm, so a little extra in the old feedbag is well-advised. However, Kitty may be spending a lot more time at home in front of the fire these days, or Rover’s walks may be shorter than in the balmier months and, in that case, be careful you don’t overfeed.

And don’t assume your intrepid hunter can find sufficient nourishment to survive the winter months. Cats who live exclusively al fresco and who generally fend for themselves will need extra nourishment to help them through colder times. The rodents and birds who are their natural prey will be in scant supply and as it happens, a well-fed cat will be a healthier cat and, therefore, a better hunter. (I’m actually a strong advocate of keeping cats indoors at all times, but that’s another story).

As for water, dry winter weather leaves your pet more vulnerable to dehydration so fresh water is essential at all times. To help prevent outside water from freezing use a heavy plastic dish as this loses heat more slowly than metal. A deeper dish will freeze less easily; and keep the dish away from shaded areas or, better yet, get a bird bath de-icer. Most importantly, check the water often.

6. Keep pets dry.
I already touched on this with regard to bedding but if Rover, Mouser or Trigger get wet, it’s also a good idea to give them a thorough rub-down before they settle inside. A wet pet will chill rapidly, just like you.

7. Honk your horn!
Cats (and other little critters) have a nasty habit of crawling into your car’s engine while it’s still warm. Before starting your car you can honk your horn or bang on the hood to scare any animals away.

8. Frostbite.
Frostbite is tissue damage, usually to extremities, caused by exposure to cold. If it’s cold enough and exposure is long enough, the tissue can actually die. In animals it’s not the easiest thing to spot because of hair coverage, but check the ears, paws, tail and scrotum in particular to see if the skin is pale and they are very cold to the touch.

Treat frostbite by carefully warming the affected areas. Do not rub or massage the frostbitten tissue; you risk causing infection that way. Instead, use warm cloths, heat pads or heat lamps. Then get your pet to the vet pronto! As the tissue warms it can be very painful and will need to be monitored and your vet will likely prescribe painkillers. Severely damaged tissue may require amputation to avoid life-threatening conditions such as gangrene.

9. Hypothermia.
This is a lowering of the core body temperature. Shivering is the first sign of hypothermia and, if heat loss continues, respiratory distress, paralysis and cardiac arrest can follow. Treatment involves rapid warming of the body. For mild cases keep a pet heating pad on hand, or hot water bottles, heat lamps, hair dryers and blankets. A warm bath can also do the trick but always follow-up with a visit to the doctor to check for any lingering problems. Severe hypothermia requires immediate veterinarian intervention.

10. Prevention is worth a pound of cure.
It’s an old adage but oh so true. A healthy pet is the first and best defense against winter cold and any ailments it may bring. The young and the old, of course, are always at greater risk so be watchful and be prepared and, please, keep a more vigilant eye out for strays at this time. Try and get them to a safe place, or at least put some food out and set up a shelter so they have a chance to survive.

“If you have men who will exclude any of God’s creatures from the shelter of compassion and pity, you will have men who will deal likewise with their fellow men.”—Francis of Assisi

You might also be interested in:

Dogged By The Flu

Finding The Right Veterinary Care

Christmas Gift Dog

One of the primary reasons that pets are cast aside is because new owners simply don’t know what they’re getting themselves into. We’ve become a throw-away society entrenched in a disposable or one-use mindset, which extends, sadly, even to our animals. Add to that some of the slick marketing techniques used to encourage you to buy a pet – easy payment terms, money back guarantees, misleading sales pitches – and it’s all too easy to come home with Fido or Hammie and without the slightest idea of what it requires to take care of him.

That said, here are a few ideas that might help the potential “parent” (and solve your gift-giving dilemma) before another creature is dumped at a shelter.

1. Pet Rescue Video Games. Recently-released games for Nintendo Wii and hand-held players aim to show kids, in a fun and interactive way, what it takes to care for and rescue animals.

Knowledge Adventure, in Torrance, CA has produced Jumpstart Pet Rescue, a Wii game, for children ages three to six. Kids create an avatar that they use to move through different neighborhoods while searching for lost pets.

Ubisoft, a French company, is offering hand-held games designed for children ages six to 14. With Pet Adoption Center for Nintendo DS – Rescue and Care for all Kinds of Pets the child will care for and help find homes for cats, dogs, bunnies, horses, guinea pigs and even deer.  The Petz series includes Petz Hamsterz 2, Petz Bunnyz, as well as Petz Dogz Pack and Petz Catz Clan and several others. Available for Nintendo DS (and soon Sony PSP) you will be able to train and play with your pet and customize his environment with toys and other items.

If your child is a Barbie fan then Barbie Pet Rescue, by Vivendi Universal, might be just the ticket. Your kid will help Barbie and her sister, Stacey, nurse the animals back to help, play with them and go on rescue missions to save pets.

2. Give the Gift of Training. Obviously this isn’t for someone who’s getting a hamster. But if a puppy is joining the household then some basic training is essential in order that everyone knows their place and can get along.

There are lots of inexpensive training aids from books to videos to online classes. The one I prefer is Sessions With Cesar, Cesar Millan’s online course, which is available in three, six or twelve month plans. The course not only covers the basics, it allows you to individualize your training for the needs of your pet. And you’ll have access to the community forum where you can ask others for advice on any problems you encounter. What’s more, you’ll be contributing to the Sessions rescue program.

If your budget allows, private or group training is an option. Search your local area for accredited trainers or ask knowledgeable friends for recommendations or try PetSmart, their lessons begin at $109.

3. Microchip a Pet. Chances are, if the pet came from a shelter, it will already have a microchip. This is a tiny computer chip, about the size of a grain of rice, that’s implanted between the pet’s shoulder blades. The chip contains a code that is registered to the owner. Should Fido or Miss Kitty get lost, the chip can be read with a handheld device (most vets and shelters will have one) and your precious pet will be returned home.

Microchips must be implanted by a veterinarian. You shouldn’t have to pay more than about $50 for the insertion and registration combined, though I’ve heard quotes from $25 to $150. I suggest you call around; check local shelters, too, as they may offer special deals. Also, ask what scanner they use and which microchip company they recommend, then do a little homework to make sure it’s not a proprietary chip that other types of scanner can’t read.

4. Pet Insurance. No-one expects their new family member to fall ill, yet the odds are probably in favor of something happening sooner rather than later, especially if the animal has an uncertain origin such as a pet store, where many dogs and cats come from puppy and kitten mills.

For a cat, expect to pay $15 – $20 a month; dogs will run in the range of $22 – $30. As with people insurance, there will be deductibles and percentage payments that the owner will have to pick up in the event of health care being needed. But your gift might just be the difference between Bonzo staying in his new home or being put down.

Companies that offer pet insurance are VPI Pet Insurance, Petplan, Pets Best Insurance, PetCare Insurance. You can also get insurance through the ASPCA and the AKC.

5. Magazine Subscriptions. This may seem old hat but there are magazines on just about every pet you can imagine and they offer a host of helpful information and resources for the new pet parent. Just go to amazon.com and search for your particular pet species and you’ll find something to suit every budget.

6. Books. As with the magazines, there’s something for everyone. Search amazon.com or AbeBooks.com.

7. Pet Gift Basket. For a more traditional gift, how about making up a gift “basket” by filling a pet bed with food, treats, toys, grooming tools and so on. For a puppy you might include wee wee pads and teething toys. For kittens, a scratching post and nail clippers might be a good idea. For smaller critters like rats and hamsters, how about a big bag of bedding (not cedar) and hide toys in it?

8. Pet-sitting/Daycare. Will Lassie be left alone for long periods of time? A dog alone can be a recipe for disaster. Boredom can lead to destructive behavior. Consider a gift of a dog-walker or doggy daycare. Check local listings or search online and be sure to get references. Daycare prices usually run about $25 a day but you might find a dog-walker/pet-sitter for as little as $10 an hour.

9. Gift Your Own Time. Offer to walk the dog, feed the cat, pet-sit the guinea pig when the family are away. There are many things you might do to help keep the home functioning smoothly. You could even help with training.

“Oh Christmas Tree, Oh Christmas Tree, your ornaments shine temptingly…” ~ The Cat

Nine cats reside in my home. They’re all rescues, of course, and run a gamut of ailments from digestive disorders to hyperthyroidism, respiratory problems to anxiety and stress. Some of them are long-hair but all seem to shed with equally relentless capacity. As a consequence, I swear I spend half my life cleaning up spit, snot, hairballs, pee and poop. And if I don’t stay on top of things, there’s the risk that my house will smell like a feline latrine. So, let’s address some of these problems and ways in which to deal with them.

The litter box. Perhaps the most essential tool for the indoor cat owner; just dumping in any old litter and placing the box any old where is rarely good enough. To this day I still have not found the ideal cat litter for me or my pets. Yes, your cat can be as finicky about her litter as she is about her food.

The scented litters can be overpowering and some of my cats don’t like them. I also happen to be highly allergic to them, which makes me wonder what damage they might do to my furry “kids”. Plain clay gets smelly quickly and requires dumping the whole mess rather than just scooping. Then there’s the issue of dust (like I don’t have enough cleaning already) and tracking (it’s a pain getting into bed with bits of kitty litter stuck on the bottom of your feet). I’ve finally settled on a mix of scoopable pine (looks like sawdust) and clay granules (Ultra Precious Cat). There are no perfumes, dyes or chemicals; almost no dust; tracking is not quite as bad as lot of other litters and it does sweep up easily. Cost may be a little higher than some well-known brands but I find this combination lasts longer. To control odor, there is no substitute for frequent scooping, which I do at least twice a day.

As for the litter box. The rule of thumb seems to be one box per cat. But I don’t use those expensive pet store boxes. I go to Walmart and for seven or eight bucks I buy 30 gallon storage containers, cut an opening in one side and spread them around the house. In some areas I use the lid and disguise the box behind plants and room dividers but, because not all cats like to do their business in a completely enclosed space, in places like the laundry room and garage I leave the lid off. Adequate, clean litter boxes are the best way to prevent…….

Inappropriate peeing.

Oliver

I’ve had my problems with this on and off. In fact every time my husband and I go away our insecure little Ollie expresses his anxiety by marking around the house. So I am never without a supply of Ultimate Pet Odor Out or Anti Icky Poo. For me these are the best odor eliminators on the market and are absolutely necessary as they destroy the bacteria that cause odor. They may seem expensive but do actually last a long time. Check on amazon.com; I usually find the best prices there. Cleaning alone, even with bleach, will not work. After the odor eliminator has done its job, try cleaning with a solution of white vinegar or lemon juice.

Note: If you have a consistent problem with your pet urinating in the home, take her to the doctor. The problem may be an infection. And chronic behavioral problems can sometimes be controlled with homeopathic remedies.

Hairballs. Most spit-ups are hairball related and the best way to deal with this is prevention. Not that you’ll ever have a hairball-free house but there are are things you can do. Daily brushing helps. Most of my cats love this. For those that don’t, one of those grooming gloves works instead. Try a hairball food as well but be careful. My cat, Ms Taz, absolutely craves the stuff and if I don’t control the amount she eats we then have to deal with….

Loose stool. I first became aware of Taz’s overindulgence when it looked as if there had been an explosion in the litter box. It was ghastly! But scrubbing the box is a lot easier than cleaning bed linen or cat beds where the loose stuff sticks to your pet’s butt and then gets wiped on every spot they sit. The Icky Poo works here as well before washing. Taz also happens to be long-haired, so I regularly trim her rear end for easier cleaning, if necessary.

Snot a problem. A couple of my kitties have slight allergy issues. Of course, usually they sneeze when they’re on my lap gazing into my face but, thankfully, it’s generally just mucus.

The thing here is, if you’re going to have house pets, you’re going to have dirt. I long ago adjusted to the fact that my home will never look like anything featured in Good Housekeeping. The beds, the sofa, the chairs, all have covers over them that I can wash when necessary or whisk off in a hurry if someone comes to call.

“It’s really the cat’s house – we just pay the mortgage.” ~ Unknown.